Scientific Name: Cyphotilapia frontosa
Maximum Size: 15 inches
Life expectancy: 15 years
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Temperature Range: 72 – 82 °F
pH Range: 7.8 – 8.5
Water hardness: dH 10 – 15
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Origin: Lake Tanganyika
Aquarium Setup:
Because of their large size Frontosa’s need at least a 70 – 100 gallon tank. Tank length is more important than the height, as it will give them more swimming space.
Substrate can be either fine gravel or sand and several caves should be added for hiding places. Never use rocks with sharp edges, when scared Frontosa’s will dart through the water and they will injure themselves on sharp edges.
Any rock formations or tank decorations should also be well anchored. Frontosa’s are strong due to their size and can knock rocks over, hurt themselves and maybe even crack your aquarium!
Frontosa Cichlid’s don’t like a lot of movement in the water, so it is important to diffuse the water from filters or pumps. Water movement can also reduce the amount and quality of the males sperm!
Diet:
In their natural habitat the Frontosa’s diet consists mainly of small fish, so they will love the occasional meal of feeder fish. They can also be fed worms, krill, shrimp and mysis and food can be either live or frozen.
Food pellets are another good addition to the Frontosa’s menu. Flakes are fine for Frontosa’s under 5 inches, but most larger ones won’t eat them.
Tank Mates/Community:
Other Lake Tanganyika Cichlids that are about the same size will be compatible with the Frontosa. Clown Loaches and large Plecos will also work well.
Behavior:
Frontosa’s are very lethargic fish and will only become active when scared! They are semi-nocturnal and very little light is needed for them to wake up.
They are very outgoing fish that will soon be eating out of your hand! They like to swim in groups, it is recommended to have at least four in the tank community.
Color:
Frontosa Cichlids have either white or blue bodies and are marked with 6 or 7 black bands that run vertical. They are one of the most beautiful Cichlids available.
Breeding:
Frontosa’s are very slow growing and it will take three to four years before they reach sexual maturity. When ready to breed the male will usually have a bluer color and the female egg tubes will start to protrude.
The best ratio for breeding is four females for each male. The male will select a spot to release his sperm, the female will then glide over the same spot releasing the eggs. Once she has released all of her eggs, she will gather them in her mouth.
These mouth brooders will hold the eggs for around 5 weeks. During this time she probably won’t eat anything or eat very little, don’t worry this is normal.
The incubation period is 4 – 5 days and any unfertilized eggs will just dissolve. You can expect anywhere from 20 to 80 fry in each brood. The female will continue to take the fry into her mouth if they are in danger.
Once she no longer protects them, they should be moved to a separate growing tank. Adult Frontosa’s will consider the small fry “feeders” and eat them!
Interesting Notes:
Once they’ve matured Frontosa Cichlids develop a pronounced hump on top of their heads. Although, color varies little from the male and female, sex can sometimes be identified by the larger hump!
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very interesting information, im planing on keeping frontosas in my 110 gallon tank,i have in there at the moment around 80 mbuna which i had for 4 years, i intend to sell them all to keep maybe 8 to 10 frontosas in, your expert opinion on this would be a great help. with thanks paul dixon.
interesting read, look forward to hearing from you, p dixon
I just bought 2 Frontosa’s to add to my mix of mbunas. I have a 90 gallon tank with lots of plants and rocks for hiding. The fish are all very small right now, but nfortunately I couldn’t purchase the 2 Frontosa’s untill 2 weeks after the other 15 fish. When the Frontosa’s were introduced they were immediately harassed by the other fish and I can only find one 3 days later who is hiding behind the power head. Is there any hope that this situation will change or is this a lost cause?
You will prob need at least 2, if not 3 more frontosas… they do better if three are 3-4 of them in a tank. But u can remove all the fish, except the frontosas, from the main tank into a smaller tank for a week or two. This lets the Frontosas get comfortable together and the home tank feel. When you re-introduce the rest back into the main tank…the frontosas sshould be looked at as equal or the owners of the tank by the other fish. Good luck.
hi good day! =) i have 3 frontosa in 50 galoon tank.. my problem was……my frontosa losing its color and i dnt knw why.. my frontosa size is 2 inch.. is it normal or not? thanks
hey,
i have about 7 frontosa cichlids and over the last few months 2 of them have changed colour to a browney yellow colour… if you could give me a response as to why they might be doing this would be much appreciated. i look forward to your reply.
thanx
Great info, thanks! I have a breeding pair of Frontosa in a 55 gallon aquarium. Right now I only have 6 babies under 2″ because I had to move the mother while she was holding a brand new batch of babies and she got stressed
I have found that temperature and water changes are very important when keeping Frontosa. They are prone to hole in the head if water conditions aren’t just right. I noticed the water movement issue as well. If you have a high flow canister filter, you may want to point any cave entrances away from the outflow of water. Young Frontosa eat just about anything, but the adults, especially my male, are a bit picky. I keep a separate tank with only red cherry shrimp in it. They breed nonstop and provide never ending food for the Frontosa. They really like algae wafers and pellets as well. I don’t remove the young from the tank, but I have several small caves that the adult fish can’t enter which provides a safe hiding place for younger fish. Keeping them well feed seems to keep them from eating their own young.
hi
ih have 24 frontosa in 700 gallon of tank